I Made a Beautiful Embossed Metal Artwork Using a Soda Can
The Aluminum Canvas
I wanted to try metal embossing, or “Repujado,” but didn’t want to buy expensive copper or pewter sheets. I carefully cut the top and bottom off an aluminum soda can and unrolled it into a flat sheet. The thin aluminum was surprisingly soft and incredibly receptive to being tooled. Using just a few simple, rounded tools, I was able to create a beautiful, intricate, embossed design on this piece of recycled trash. It was a perfect, and completely free, material for a beginner.
The Only 3 Tools You Need to Start Metal Embossing
The Stylus, The Blender, and The Deerfoot
The world of embossing tools is vast, but I learned you only really need three basic tools to get started. You need a fine-tipped “stylus” (or even a dry ballpoint pen) to trace your design. You need a smooth, rounded “blender” to gently push out the larger areas of your design from the back. And you need a small, angled “deerfoot” tool to get into the small corners and to create sharp, defined details. With just these three simple tools, you can create incredibly detailed and beautiful work.
How to Transfer Your Design Onto a Metal Sheet
The Imprint of the Pen
The easiest and most effective way I found to transfer my design onto a thin sheet of metal was to just use pressure. I would tape my printed design directly onto the front of my metal sheet. Then, using a hard-tipped pen, I would firmly trace over all the lines of my design. When I removed the paper, a faint, but perfectly clear, indented outline of my design was left in the soft metal, ready for me to start tooling.
The Secret to Getting High “Puffiness” in Your Design
The Magic of the Beeswax
I wanted my embossed designs to have a high, puffy, three-dimensional look. The secret I learned was to work on a soft, forgiving surface. For the highest relief, I would do my embossing on a small, flat block of beeswax. The soft wax allows you to push the metal much further without tearing it, creating a much deeper and more dramatic “repoussé” effect than you could ever get on a simple foam pad.
Stop Working on a Hard Surface: The One Thing You Need Under Your Metal
The Gift of the Give
When I first tried metal embossing, I was working on my hard desk. My lines were flat, and I couldn’t get any depth. The most crucial part of the setup is a soft work surface. A simple stack of newspapers or a craft foam sheet is all you need. This “give” in the surface is what allows you to push the metal from the back and create the raised, embossed design. Without a soft surface, you are just scratching the metal, not sculpting it.
How to Fill the Back of Your Piece to Make It Strong
The Wax and the Plaster
After I had embossed my thin metal sheet, it was beautiful but very fragile; the puffy design could be easily crushed. To make it strong and permanent, I learned you have to fill the hollow back of the piece. For small pieces, you can just melt some wax into the back. For larger pieces, I would mix up a small batch of Plaster of Paris and pour it into the back of the piece. Once it hardened, the delicate, embossed metal was supported and incredibly strong and durable.
I Added an “Antique” Patina to My Metal Embossing
The Black Paint Wipe-Off
My shiny, embossed aluminum piece looked a little bit too new. I wanted it to have an “antique” look. I took some black acrylic craft paint and painted the entire front of the piece, making sure the paint got into all the little crevices. Then, before the paint could dry, I took a soft cloth and wiped the paint off the raised surfaces. The black paint remained in all the low spots, creating a beautiful, high-contrast, antiqued patina that made the details of my design pop.
The Easiest Metal for Beginners to Work With
The Pewter Plate
While a soda can is a great free option, the absolute best and most forgiving metal for a beginner to learn on is a sheet of pewter. Pewter is an incredibly soft and malleable metal. It is very easy to tool, it doesn’t work-harden and become brittle like copper or aluminum, and it has a beautiful, silvery luster. It’s a joy to work with and is the perfect material for creating detailed and professional-looking embossed work.
I Decorated a Wooden Box With Embossed Metal Panels
The Tinsmith’s Touch
I had a plain, boring wooden craft box. I decided to elevate it with some metal embossing. I cut thin aluminum panels to fit the top and sides of the box. I then embossed a beautiful, intricate design into each panel. I gave them an antique patina and then just simply glued them onto the box. The plain wooden box was transformed into a stunning, one-of-a-kind treasure chest that looked like a historic, handcrafted artifact.
The Most Common Mistake That Tears Your Metal Foil
The Danger of the Sharp Tool
When I started embossing, I was tearing my thin metal foil constantly. I was using tools that were too sharp. I learned that for embossing, your tools should be smooth and rounded, not sharp. You are not trying to cut the metal; you are trying to stretch and push it. By switching to a set of smooth, ball-tipped styluses and gently working the metal in a circular motion, I was able to create deep, beautiful designs without ever tearing the foil.